Reparando la N64 de Scanlines Girl (N64 RGB Parte 33 1/3)

In this video I'm going to .



Wait .



I feel a disturbance in the strength.

My spider sense tells me to check Twitter.

Wow, it seems that Scanlines Girl, the youtuber who makes videos about retro video games, has tried to install an RGB mod on the Nintendo 64and something has gone wrong.

After an exchange of messages, I offer to try to repair it.

After a somewhat bumpy shipping, the console reaches my white table.

After opening the box with the same love that it was wrapped with, I proceed to examine the console.

The mod she tried to install is from Tim Worthinton, and I dedicated a video to him a while ago.

I already said that the cable made the installation more difficult.

From what I see Scali installs it with the sync signal generated by the circuit.

When I turn it over and remove the bottom plate, I see that she had put on some long strips of electrical tape.

Here are the solders on the video output.

This is the sync wire that comes from the circuit.

Now I remove the heatsink to seethe rest of the installation.

Hmm .



Looks like Scali wrapped electrical tapearound the entire board to secure the wires.

The downside is that the tape prevents the processors from dissipatingthe heat they produce.

The tape mark can be seenon the conductive pads attached to the heatsink.

Here is the cable soldered to an adapter since this Nintendo 64 has an MAV-NUS chip, to which the cable cannot be soldered directly.

I remove the tape and check for continuity between the installation cables.

It seems that everything is fine, so I'm going to test the console.

I put some tape on the cable, mount the heatsink, and to do the console to work I put the jumper pak, the power supply, a composite video cable, and of course, a game.

Wow, now I understand what Scali meantwhen she said that the image was wrong.

I have seen this problem before.

The RCP sends the digital signal of the imageto the analog converter through several contacts.

If when installing the mod there is a short circuit between these cables, the colors are altered.

Since I have checked the connectionsbefore and found no problems, the short may occur when mounting the heatsink, causing the cable to move and short.

The best thing is that you directlydisassemble the entire mod and reinstall it.

I unsolder the wires from the circuit, video output, and adapter.

I do one last check on the adapter contacts, and a short appears between data seventh pin and the 3.

3 volt supply.

That produced the alteration of the colors.

To remove the adapter from the chip, I put molten tin on all the pins, remove the adapter, and remove excess tin with a copper strip to desolder.

I also remove it from the adapterand clean everything with isopropyl alcohol.

Now I place the video chip adapter again.

Once aligned, it is enough for me to heatthe contacts with the soldering iron, since they still have some tin.

But I add more to ensure the solder.

I do this using 0.

3 millimeter thick wire, which prevents me from putting excess tin.

I check with the multimeter thatall the solders are correct and that there are no short circuits.

It is the turn of the cable, the damn cable that melts right away.

It's because its fault that the mod is so difficult.

Remember how it looked when I tried it, and it was my second attempt.

I remove the insulation from both ends of the wire.

For it to solder well, it is best to tin the stripped wire.

To do this, you have to melt tin on the tip of the soldering iron and quickly put iton the wire with a quick movement.

If done right, the wire will be tinnedwithout melting the insulation.

Now I prepare the adapter to solder itby putting a little fresh tin, and place the cable with the help of tweezers, soldering everything with a few brief touches with the soldering iron.

I secure the adapter with electrical tape , which I also cover the wire with, and then fold it twice.

Putting the heatsink will be quite subject.

I repeat the method of soldering the wire with the mod circuit, and fasten it with electrical tape.

The process is the same for soldering the video output cable and the sync cable.

Next I solder the cables to the video output, taking into account where each color outputhas to be soldered, the ground and the timing.

By the way, I cut the track from the video output pin, so there is no interference with the mod's sync signal.

Last, ground cable is screwed to the heatsink of the console.

Finally, you have to place the switch that activates or deactivates the mod's deblur filter.

You just have to solder wires to the switch, and solder these to the pad marked A and a ground pad.

To finish I secure everything with electrical tape.

The mod works without problem, both on a CRT and a LED television.

And why didn't the console turn on Probably the electrical tape on the processors overheated them and the console was turned off for safety.

But it still works perfectly, and it will bring Scalines Girl good cheers.

Of course, after the console enjoy a little island visit.

To finish the video I give you some tips: use fine tin wire if the welds are small, some tweezers will help you to hold the cables, and they do not need to be professionals, hair tweezers can be used perfectly, and do not be afraid to do a modification for yourself, even if it seems complicated, practice a little before doing it, use the right tools, and if you don't get it right away, start over again.

And respect the dissipation system.

It's time to return the console to Scali, sending it with the same love that she sent it.

Feel free to visit the Scanlines Girl channel and subscribe to see interesting content about video games.

Thanks for watching the video.

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